Delivering 12.0% ABV and 200gms residual sugar, Denis Dubourdieu’s luxury Barsac, the 2007 L’Extravagant de Doisy-Daene, does not hold back, born with a lucid golden hue with big fat tears (of joy). The bouquet is very intense but very tight at first, demanding time to unfurl in the glass at its own pleasure: white peach, apricot, orange-blossom and a touch of marmalade with breathtaking definition. The palate is full-bodied with a viscous entry, so pure and caressing with mellifluous honey, apricot and citrus lemon, wonderful delineation on the finish, the thread of acidity interwoven through that powerful finish with the length of an ocean liner. Brilliant. Drink 2015-2050.

Yellow-gold. An essence of fruity noble rot on the nose: racy pineapple, apricot, orange, honey. Then extraordinarily dense and vibrant, with huge pineappley acidity giving verve and precision to the wonderfully unctuous, incredibly sweet flavors (the residual sugar is reportedly more than 200 grams per liter!). The combination of thickness and verve here is mindboggling. Perhaps most impressive on the bracing, incredibly long and almost painful finish, which throws off flavors of pineapple, honey and toast. With this wine's level of sweetness and acidity, it should evolve in bottle for decades. One of the best young Barsacs-or botrytis wines from anywhere-I've ever tasted.