The 2022 L'Extravagant de Doisy-Daëne, pure Sémillon as usual, is deceptively backward on the nose. The action is on the palate: unctuous honeyed fruit counterbalanced by fine acidity, extremely pure with layers of wild peach, apricot, figs and marmalade on the long finish. Despite its power, it comes across with tenderness and grace. Chapeau Jean-Jacques Dubourdieu. It's outrageous in all the best ways.

The 2022 Doisy-Daëne L'Extravagant soars out of the glass with pineapple, crème brûlée, coconut, tangerine oil and candied orange peel. This is an especially rich vintage for L'Extravagant, a Barsac that usually shows a bit more Sauvignon Blanc energy and cut. This clearly needs time.

100% Sauvignon Blanc. Cask sample. Lifted, fresh and zesty. Jumps out of the glass. Mandarin, pear and citrus notes. Palate sweet but comfortably so. Long and tangy with a bitter-edged finish. Delicious. (JL)