The 1995 Domaine de Chevalier Blanc must have been an austere wine in its youth, but at age 25, it's just beginning to unwind enough to make for very interesting drinking. Offering up aromas of lemon pith, beeswax, pine needles and subtle hints of vanilla pod, it's medium-bodied, deep and incisive, with a satiny attack; it's concentrated, precise and bone-dry. Patience has been rewarded, and I'm looking forward to my remaining bottles.

1995 Domaine de Chevalier Blanc (70% sauvignon blanc and 30% semillon): Subdued but highly nuanced musky, floral, minty aroma, with notes of melon and grapefruit; the sauvignon blanc has the upper hand today Has a spicy, almost candied quality in the mouth, but boasts lovely shape and precision thanks to its mineral underpinning and juicy acids. Really harmonious and fine. Not a blockbuster, but there's plenty of richness here and uncommon delicacy and class. Utterly captivating wine.