Medium gold in color, the 1999 d'Yquem has shed its puppy fat and transformed into compelling cinnamon toast, creme caramel and cashew notions with emerging notes of beurre blanc, honeycomb, ginger snaps and praline over a core of peach preserves and apple pie. The palate is softly spoken with a refreshing backbone carrying loads of delicate savory and stone fruit preserves nuances to a long, beautifully restrained finish. At the 20-year mark, this wine is in the midst of its ideal drinking window, and while I hasten to add that there is no rush to drink up, there’s also no need to delay your gratification either. The alcohol this vintage is 13.8%, while the residual sugar is 128 grams per liter, and the total acidity is 4.5 grams per liter of H2SO4.

Space limitations preclude including tasting notes.

The 1999 Yquem is a wine I’ve tasted several times in recent months since it is available by the glass in a local restaurant. It’s a middle-of-the-road Yquem, a fine Sauternes but nothing special. The aromatics always feel a little advanced for the wine’s age, offering tangerine, mandarin and light butterscotch scents but perhaps just missing the clarity and complexity of top vintages. The palate has pleasing viscosity and is spicier than expected, with touches of ginger complementing the orange peel and dried apricot notes toward the conservative finish. Tasted at The Jetty restaurant.

Deep amber. Very creamy and sweet with tangy barley sugar notes. Fresh and remarkably lively in 2022 for a wine that was perceived as very forward. (JR)