The 2021 d'Yquem exhibits a complex bouquet of rose, exotic fruits and mandarin orange mingled with spring flowers, rose and crème brûlée, followed by a medium to full-bodied, ample and seamless palate that's suave and layered, with a deep core and a long finish that's lent definition by delicate bitterness that offsets the 148 grams per liter residual sugar. This blend of 65% Sémillon and 35% Sauvignon Blanc was matured, as usual, in all new barrels, but the new oak is perfectly integrated and barely noticeable.

Released 21 March 2024. One of the 'good if not great vintages', according to winemaker Lorenzo Pasquini. The 2021 growing season was very tough for viticulture, with frost, hail and mildew. Volume was low (they made 50,000 bottles). However, there was no rain in summer, with low temperature and cloud cover which helped retain acidity (which is a main characteristic of the vintage). Noble rot was homogeneous throughout September, with a long dry spell allowing for unrushed parcel selection. 'Delicacy and power', says Pasquini. Aged in 100% new French oak for 24 months. RS 148 g/l. Beautiful primary fruit boasting tropical complexity: mango, pineapple. Saltiness, according to the winemaker – and there is definitely savoury contrast in there. The marvel of this wine is its completeness – the stitching is so fine between the sugar, acidity, rich fruit and length. Opens up in the glass, with white chocolate, caramel, clotted cream, mixed peel, five-spice. As prestigious as ever, and so gratifying to drink right now. (RH)

Tasted blind. Very deep gold. Gorgeous and layered and fresh too. Subtle and a little saline. Hint of salted-peanut flavour! (JR)