The 2004 Chateau de Fargues is a fantastic wine for the vintage and should not be overlooked. It boasts a heavenly bouquet with touches of white chocolate, dried honey, marmalade and quince that opens exuberantly with aeration. The palate is extremely well-balanced with a fine line of acidity. There is certainly very good weight here, similar to the Doisy-Vedrines, albeit packed with greater sophistication and breeding. It builds gloriously in the mouth toward its tender praline and honey finish, which lingers long in the mouth. This is a superb and perhaps overlooked Chateau de Fargues. Drink now-2035. Tasted February 2014.

A curl of woodsmoke on the first nose, plenty of acidity to ensure a push and pull contrast as the palate constructs itself in the mouth. A low yield after hail, down to 6hl/h, but this has poise and elegance and deliver a satiny texture while keeping the flavours tight and controlled, with grated ginger, spiced nectarine and cloves. Harvest Septemer 28 through to November 4, spread out across four passes through the vines, just finishing before the frost. François Amirault winemaker.

Very sweet and round and excitingly luscious. Exciting. (JR)