2009 Gracia, Saint-Emilion Grand Cru

The 2009 Gracia competes handsomely with the spectacular 2005 and 2000 vintages. A slightly more evolved and fleshy effort, the inky/purple-hued 2009 (75 % Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon) is a massive, thick powerhouse with 14.5% natural alcohol. Proprietor Michel Gracia often makes a wine that is similar to that of his friend, the proprietor of Ausone. Blueberry, blackberry, licorice, forest floor, smoke and graphite aromas jump from the glass of this unctuously textured, layered, multidimensional St.-Emilion. Displaying an inner core of extract (yields were only 19 hectoliters per hectare) and not a hard edge to be found, this youthful 2009 tastes more like a barrel sample than a finished wine. It will benefit from 5-10 years of cellaring and should last for 3-4 decades.

Blackberry with earth and spices follow through to a full body, with velvety tannins and a long caressing finish. Plenty of ripe fruit underneath the structure.

(15% alcohol): Bright, deep ruby-red. Sexy blueberry, mineral and smoky oak aromas are lifted by a violet topnote. Fat, sweet, dense and plush but not monolithic, showing good spicy lift and delineation to the superconcentrated black fruit and smoky oak flavors. Finishes with very suave tannins and a hint of chocolate mint. This may well surpass Michel Gracia's outstanding 2005 release, as the new wine shows flamboyant early personality.

This exhibits ripe, succulent flesh and nice concentration to its core of plum, cassis and blackberry fruit, all laced with anise, toasted spice and sweet tobacco notes. Has heft but stays nicely polished through the finish. Very solid. JM

Served blind at the Southwold 2009 tasting. The Gracia ‘09 is sweet and ripe with dark plum, wild strawberry and vanilla on the nose. It is overtly modern but nicely defined. The palate is ripe and toasty with rounded, chocolate tinged black fruit. This is not a heavy wine compared to other, very harmonious with a sweet appealing finish with touches of raisin and date. Tasted January 2013.

Inky purple. Fresh, expressive aromas of dark plum, blackberry and roasted coffee bean. The palate offers similar black fruit flavors complicated by inky and cedary nuances. Finishes fresh and refined; not yet particularly complex but admirably restrained. Very smooth and well made but I found its 14.5% alcohol a bit tiring. (Michel Gracia's Les Angelots de Gracia was vibrant, sweet and satisfying in the mouth, but I was a bit put off by dominant aromas of oaky torrefaction.)