The 1982 Grand-Puy-Lacoste continues to dazzle. This is in such a good place at the moment. From a regular bottle this time, it has a gorgeous blackberry, cedar and pencil box-scented bouquet that revs up with aeration. Pure & classic. The palate is wonderfully balanced; the tannins have finally polymerized to lend this 1982 the sensuality that it missed a few years ago. Just superb. Tasted blind at Maison François in London.

This is a tour de force, and one of the all-time great Grand-Puy-Lacostes ever produced, as I hope the 2000 and 2005 will become. This is an inky/purple, beefy, broad, super-rich Pauillac revealing classic creme de cassis notes intermixed with hints of spring flowers and crushed rocks. Full-bodied with sweet tannin, shocking concentration, and layers of fruit, this irresistible 1982 is still an adolescent in terms of its evolution. Anticipated maturity: now-2035. Release price: ($85.00/case)

Floral aromas mingle with toast and caramel on the nose - both soft and sweet - crushed rose petals and salty stones with dark fruit. Tense and direct to start, lively with piercing acidity that is countered by a crystalline texture and lovely fine tannins that support the frame but are barely there. This has lost its fleshy, overt fruitiness, but you still get structure, a graceful frame and lots of polish. It's well made but starting to resemble more of a shell of its former self. I still enjoyed it a lot, particularly the minerality, the strength and the savoury elements.

Full, deep red. Reticent aromas of plum, currant, mint and cedar. Dry, penetrating and stylish, with very primary flavors and noteworthy vinosity. Classic claret intensity and grip without any excess weight. The flavors build impressively on the firmly tannic, youthfully tough finish. This bottle was still a few years away from full maturity and should last for another 20 years.

Deep crimson with a thin, pale rim. Very minerally flavours. Not especially intense, but classic and complex. Thick, sweet and dense. Very creditable Pauillac. No hurry to drink. Needs powerful food. (JR)