The 1989 Grand-Puy-Lacoste has always lain in the shadow of the 1990. There is something atypical about this vintage. It has an uncharacteristically high-toned bouquet with black cherries, black olives, and plenty of mint (maybe too much so that it veers toward spearmint). The palate is medium-bodied with graphite-infused black fruit. It is redeemed by GPL's tendency towards wonderful symmetry with a hint of seaweed on the finish. It's enjoyable, but there's a reason it lies in the shadow of the 1990. Tasted at the 1989 dinner at Piccolino in London.

When I first tasted the 1989 Grand-Puy-Lacoste in this blind tasting I thought it possessed a Graves-like tobacco/mineral character. In contrast to the blockbuster, full-blown, massive wines produced by this estate in 1990 and 1982, the medium-weight 1989 is elegant, spicy, evolved, and already revealing plenty of cedar and cassis fruit. A delicious, generously-endowed, low acid wine, it will offer mature drinking now and over the next 12-15 years.