The 2013 Grand Puy Lacoste is terrific. Graphite, smoke, tobacco and licorice burst onto the palate, followed by layers of dark, inviting fruit. Supremely classy from start to finish, the 2013 impresses for its energy, balance and pure, mineral-driven cut. The 2013 is by no means a huge wine, but it is super-polished to the core. Tasted twice.

The 2013 Grand-Puy-Lacoste has a well-defined bouquet with blackberry, wild strawberry and cedar fruit, nicely composed and delineated, not complex but harmonious. As usual, there is a conservative element to the aromatics in keeping with this estate's style. The palate is medium-bodied with appreciable mineralité on the entry. I like the edginess here, the framework and in particular the finesse that is not always apparent at Grand-Puy-Lacoste, at least at this early juncture. It might not be a long-term proposition, but it is certainly one of the finest Pauillac wines of the vintage courtesy of Xavier and Emeline Borie.

Dark ruby. Perfumed aromas of blackcurrant and violet. Rich and sweet on the palate, offering juicy flavors of dark plum and blueberry. Finishes smooth and persistent, with a lingering note of cedar.

80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot. 31 hl/ha. Red with a lighter rim. Open aromatically with black-olive and blackcurrant notes. Round and sweet-fruited on the palate with light but fine tannins. Lacks density and complexity but harmonious and drinking well now. (JL)

Tasted blind. Very oaky nose. Better fruit depth than some but the tannins are still pretty drying. Tough, bitter. (JH)