The delicious 1985 Gruaud-Larose has evolved beautifully. It exhibits a lovely, sweet, fragrant bouquet of berry fruit, truffles and smoky oak. On the palate, the wine is fat, long, forward for Gruaud, medium to full-bodied, and deep. Anticipated maturity: Now-2003. Last tasted, 5/93.

Medium-deep ruby-red, with only a hint of amber at the rim. Straightforward nose offers hints of redcurrant, orange zest, clove and faded flowers, but this is less complex and deep than the 1983 or 1986. The floral quality gains with aeration, becoming fresher and more perfumed. Smooth and suave on entry, with delicate, pure red berry, orange, spice and cedar flavors, then a tad chunky on the back half. This Gruaud seems to lack a little concentration and refinement, but I like its sweetness and fleshy texture. A very good food wine that's drinking beautifully right now and won't gain much by further aging.