1994 Chateau Gruaud Larose 2eme Cru Classe, Saint-Julien

The 1994 Gruaud Larose, based around 66% Cabernet Sauvignon with 25% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc and 4% Petit Verdot, is distinctly underripe and green on the nose, perhaps more like a 1992 or 1993. It's not bad per se, but very lean and undernourished. The palate is medium-bodied with a harsh entry, bitter, dry tannins, and a touch of volatility on the finish. This has deteriorated in recent years, and bottles should be drunk now. Tasted at the château.

The 1994 performed better prior to bottling. It appears to have dropped much of its mid-palate sweetness and fatness, tastes greener than my cask-tasting notes suggested, and finishes with a searing degree of harsh, bitter tannin. Perhaps I caught it in a dormant, unflattering state of evolution, but it is currently revealing less ripeness, fruit, and texture. This wine's future is suspect as the wine lacks harmony.