While not as concentrated or monumental as this estate’s 1989, the 2005 is a fleshy, racy, hypothetical blend of the 1994 and 1998 Haut-Brion, only better. It boasts a gorgeous perfume of citrus oil, lime, honeyed grapefruit, flowers, spicy smoke, and earth, followed by terrific definition, purity, and full-bodied power, but it is not as masculine as its closest competitor, Laville Haut-Brion. The 2005 Haut-Brion will be approachable early, but it should age well for 30-40 years.

Quite a deep lemon hue. Very concentrated nose, cooked apples, citrus fruits, not so much oak as usual. A touch of pineapple and passion fruit. Quite a rich, almost exotic Haut Brion Blanc with pineapple, citrus fruits and apple. Good acidity. Very well-balanced with a crisp citrus finish. Very fine, just a little too showy at this stage. Tasted April 2006.

The stand out First Growth in my recent retasting of the 2005s, and again here it blew us all away. This was a drought year, with almost no rain from May to October, but never excessively hot, and the balance is evident. The slightly dry tannins that affected many 2005s when young were never such a problem on the warm soils at Haut-Brion, and this is generous, exceptionally nuanced and flavourful, with vivid black cherry and cassis fruits, riven through with liqourice, cocoa bean, pomegranate, sage, cocoa bean and luscious acidities. Jean-Phillip Delmas winemaker, two years into his tenure at the time after taking over from his father Jean-Bernard Delmas in 2003. 100% new oak.