A proper Pessac nose with warm earth, ripe plums and delightfully maturing notes of truffle and blackberry compote. The palate is crisply defined with great harmony – the tannins have melded down very nicely but remain integrated with the acidity to give a very pleasant structure and mouthfeel. There’s none of the unwelcome ‘greenness’ which some 2002s show; it’s balanced and supple with satisfying fruit and good precision. It’s a pretty complete wine, drinking beautifully right now.

Red-ruby. Sexy aromas of blackberry, chocolate, coffee, smoke and game; a bit Burgundian. Then smoky, pliant and seamless, with a plump middle and moderate density. Finishes with smooth, slightly dusty tannins and lingering notes of baking spices and nutty oak. My favorite of these three vintages today, showing considerable early appeal.