A somewhat controversial Haut-Brion, this wine reached full maturity at a shockingly fast pace and seems now to be giving signs of cracking up. A very earthy, melted asphalt, creosote-like nose intermixed with compost, decaying autumnal vegetation, and herb-tinged fruit is actually more appealing than it might sound. In the mouth the wine is fleshy, medium-bodied, relatively lush, but the garnet color is showing considerable amber, and the finish starts to dry out after the wine sits in the glass for just a mere five minutes. And of course, I have tasted this wine from pristinely stored bottles, so I suspect those that have been less than perfectly stored are probably already in serious decline. Anticipated maturity: Now. Drink up. Last tasted, 11/02.

The fully mature 1983 is a very good wine that has fine depth, rich, soft, fat, lush fruit, and a good measure of soft tannins in the finish. The overall impression is of a forward, ripe, and voluptuous wine. It is successful, but by Haut-Brion's recent standards, the wine lacks excitement and has reached full maturity at an alarmingly fast pace. Of relatively mature Haut-Brions, this vintage, along with the 1978, has a very distinctive melted road tar (asphalt) component in its aromatics. Anticipated maturity: Now-2004. Last tasted, 7/97.