One of the sexiest, most hedonistic wines of the vintage, La Clotte’s 2005 (fewer than 1,400 cases produced from this 10-acre vineyard) is a blend of 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon. An exquisite perfume of underbrush, charcoal, kirsch, spice box, chocolate, and espresso soars from the glass of this full-bodied claret. With low acidity for the vintage, sweet tannin, and a fleshy, multilayered mouthfeel, this decadent St.-Emilion should last longer than its precocious showing in March suggests. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2025.

Good deep red-ruby. Kirsch, minerals and mocha on the nose. Smooth and fine-grained; ripe but quite dry, with lovely clarity and intensity of flavor. Finishes with firm tannic spine and good length. Like the young 2007, this offers good structure for its year, but much more richness.