The Château Lagrange 2005 has an intense bouquet with cedar and graphite infusing the black fruit, nicely controlled and focused. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannin, well-judged acidity and a slightly reserved but delineated finish: dried herbs, cedar and a dash of white pepper sprinkled over the black fruit. This excellent Lagrange has to be one of the most consistently satisfying wines from the appellation. Another year, another satisfying Lagrange.

Good ruby-red. Superripe, full-blown aromas of plum, currant, chocolate, tobacco, minerals and earth. Lush, silky and sweet, with concentrated dark fruit, mineral and spice flavors that saturate the palate. Surprisingly healthy acidity gives this definition and grip. Very nicely balanced at a high level of richness. Serious but thoroughly ripe tannins are buffered by the wine's fat fruit.

Sweet, toasty, oaky notes interwoven with hints of black olives, blackberries, cassis, and spice box are found in this densely saturated ruby/purple-hued 2005. While rich, with impressive concentration and purity, it is also tannic, full-bodied, and painfully backward and foreboding. This is another long-term prospect that will require patience. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2027.

The 2005 Lagrange comes across as somewhat masculine, tannic and austere. The oak is under control, which is always good to see, but the wine lacks charm and sweetness, although there is some nice concentration and body. Give it another 4-5 years and drink it over the next two decades.

Tasted blind. Light nose. Lots of tannin and acidity. Far from charming. Pretty stodgy. (JR)