Still remarkably dense and dark in hue, showing little outward signs of 40 years ageing. Has a 'wild', almost rustic nose (the Woltner's apparently were heavy users of press-wine accoding to J-P Delmas) but this has added the stuffing to give the longevity. A wet Spring was followed by a hot, dry June and humid August. La Mission avoided the thunderstorms which severely affected many areas. A very impressive 1983 – 'better than the 1982,' says Delmas.

Concentrated and polished, this wine shows a deep color and intense aromas and flavors of cherry, mint, plum and lead pencil. Full-bodied and reserved with excellent tannins. Better after 1998.--The Bordeaux 50.

The 1983 La Mission Haut-Brion is a very solid follow-up to the 1982, albeit not quite in the same class. It has a seductive bouquet of brambly black fruit, Earl Grey and sous-bois and fern-like scents that unfold with aeration. As always with this wine, it shows fine delineation. The vigorous palate is well-defined, offering plenty of red and black fruit tinged with tobacco and black olive and culminating in a harmonious finish. This does not deliver the depth or the persistence of the previous vintage, but it's just one of those bottles whose buvabilité catches you off guard. Tasted at the La Mission Haut Brion dinner at Amuse Bouche in Hong Kong.

This was the first vintage made under the administration of Jean Delmas. The most notable and dramatic change made at La Mission-Haut-Brion since 1983 became a more refined, polished, sophisticated style without the pure mass of older vintages, but also without the excesses of tannin and volatile acidity that sometimes plagued ancient vintages. The 1983, a very good vintage in the southern Medoc and Graves, is a relatively lightweight La Mission (particularly compared to the 1982) that is fully mature. Complex notes of smoked herbs, cigar tobacco, black currants, sweet cherries, damp earth and spice box jump from the glass of this dark garnet-colored wine. Medium-bodied with silky tannins, well-integrated, low acidity and abundant perfume, this fully mature 1983 should be consumed over the next decade.

Second bottle. Fresh, vibrant, cough-medicine nose, succulent. Lots of fresh fruit on the front palate with dry minerality on the finish. Vinified by Woltner but assembled by the Haut-Brion team. (JR)