A somewhat underrated vintage for this estate, and one that is drinking very well today, the 1988 La Mission Haut-Brion offers up classic aromas of dark berry fruit, singed underbrush, cigar ash and cedar, followed by a medium to full-bodied, deep and layered palate with bright acids and largely melted tannins. A decade ago, this was still quite tightly wound, but as it softens with age, it is revealing more volume and plenitude than one might have anticipated.

The 1988 La Mission Haut-Brion is perhaps a bit of a step down from the First Growths. Black fruit billows from the glass with touches of kelp and black olive compote, gaining complexity with time. The palate is very refined, unusually understated for this estate, harmonious and sensual. Anis hints are present towards the grainy-textured, gravelly finish. This La Mission is fully mature, but it will continue to give many years of drinking pleasure.

Robert Parker's Wine Advocate 31/08/2012 Firm, masculine and tannic with plenty of earth, truffle, asphalt and volcanic characteristics, this burly La Mission-Haut-Brion is bordering on being monolithic/foursquare. It reveals good body as well as plenty of tannin, adequate acidity, a dark plum/garnet color, and classic La Mission terroir characteristics of smoke, scorched earth, spice, roasted meats and camphor. Neither big nor wimpish, it, like many wines of this vintage, appears to be aging nicely. While fully mature, it displays enough youthful characteristics, from its tannin to its vibrant, moderately intense fruit, to suggest it will hold up for another two decades. Ferociously hard from cask, the 1988 La Mission is now exhibiting an attractive opulence and gobs of fruit. It has turned out to be a beautifully made, deep, full-bodied, concentrated, rich, well-structured wine that will last for 15-20 years. It is a bigger, deeper, yet softer, more concentrated wine than its neighbor, Haut-Brion. Anticipated maturity: 1994-2012. Last tasted, 6/93. (90)

Dark crimson with ruby rim. Lovely mellow, very slightly faded nose but hugely complex and enjoyable. Then on the palate rather pronounced acidity and dry tannins – very 1988! Dry and dusty. Will probably always be a bit painful to drink! But actually in the glass it opened out and smoothed itself. (JR)