Ruby-red. Reticent aromas of black plum and burning tobacco. Lush, dense and supple in the middle, with sweetness building toward the back. Finishes with substantial sweet tannins and very good length; as taut on the finish as the 2005. On this day, this wine seems almost as strong as the 2005. Enologist Jean-Philippe Masclet notes that the tannins were a bit dry at the beginning but are now much more supple.

Only 2,000 cases were produced of the 2004 La Tour Haut-Brion, which is the estate’s next to last vintage as the entire vineyard was absorbed into La Mission-Haut-Brion in 2006. In that vintage, virtually the entire production of La Tour Haut-Brion was utilized for La Mission’s second wine, La Chapelle de la Mission. The elegant 2004 La Tour Haut-Brion exhibits resiny notes intermixed with blueberries, cherries, and earth. While pinched in the finish and displaying austere tannin, it is a fresh, elegant, restrained effort that should evolve for 10-15 years.