The 1985 Haut-Brion Blanc is one of my favourite vintages in recent years. This bottle does not disappoint. Youthful in colour, it maintains that disarming intensity on the nose that knocks you sideways: cold wet limestone, sea cave, honeysuckle and this bottle showing a touch of quince. Previously I made comparisons towards Chablis, although this maybe too rich and decadent. The palate offers stunning balance with citrus lemon and that killer, flint-like tension that drives the finish. Ah, now we are talking Chablis! It is a phenomenal, almost effervescent, life-affirming, stellar Haut-Brion Blanc that stands alongside the 1989 as one of the best ever. Tasted at home in Guildford.

The 1985 is a sumptuous, rich, honeyed Laville-Haut-Brion that should drink beautifully for the next 15 years. It is among the more powerful and richer wines produced by the chateau, yet it has the requisite acid to give it balance and freshness. Not quite as superripe and alcoholic as the 1989, it is perhaps more typical of Laville-Haut-Brion at its richest and fullest. Anticipated maturity: Now-2008. Last tasted, 12/92.

Mid greenish gold. Honeyed beeswax nose, which opened up impressively in the glass. Lots of acidity. Starting to take on weight. Lemon and spice. (JR)