Still one of the most backward wines of the vintage, Leoville Barton’s 1982 is a wine of huge extract, high tannin, and a somewhat ancient style that recalls some of the Bordeaux of the late 1940s. The color is still a dense, even murky, opaque ruby/garnet. The wine offers up notes of licorice, cedar, black truffles, and sweet currant fruit. I had the wine twice in 2002, and my tasting notes were almost identical to the last time I had it, showing just how slowly this wine is evolving. The wine is enormous in the mouth but still has some rather gritty, high tannins. It is a classic St Julien, with meat and black currants, great structure, and an amazingly youthful, vigorous feel. I would not touch a bottle for another five or six years. Anthony Barton thinks it is more ‘rustic’ than younger vintages. No new oak was used in 1982. Anticipated maturity: Now-2035.

Red-ruby. Highly aromatic nose of raspberry, redcurrant, graphite, licorice and cedar. Leanish, dry and classic, with firm acidity but less flesh than the '96. Lovely traditionally made claret, with terrific finesse and grip. Still evolving. (A second bottle showed a somewhat leathery nose and came across as drier in the middle palate; it was not quite as fresh as the better sample.) Drink now through 2020.

With massive, huge concentration, excruciating tannin, this earthy, meaty St.-Julien has everything, but it needs to be forgotten for at least 10-15 years. At this tasting, it did not appear to have budged since the last time I had it, and it did not taste terribly different than it did at age five. While it is remarkably concentrated, it is hard to rate it any higher because it may take another 25 years to reach maturity. Even with this level of concentration, one can never be sure if the fruit will hold. Nevertheless, I have plenty of confidence in it. Release price: ($125.00/case)

Not overly expressive on the nose, a little shy and reticent. Quite a metallic, mineral edge to the palate which is angular and lacking a little in generosity of fruit and concentration. High acidity gives life and lift but exposes a lack of fruitiness and structure with a marked mineral and touch harsh finish. I had the impression the bottle wasn't showing well so others may be different.

A little TCA on the nose. Dark garnet. Lots of acidity and tannin. Firm. A little too tough and not as much pleasure as the 1985, which was the first vintage Anthony Barton was in charge of. Very Uncle Ronald (Barton)! Heavily extracted and pretty rough-edged. (JR)