The 2001 Léoville Barton is still a few years from full maturity. Unwinding in the decanter and glass with aromas of blackcurrant, licorice, loamy soil, cigar wrapper and vanilla pod, it's medium to full-bodied, rich and muscular, with a deep, concentrated core of fruit, lively acids and ripe but firm tannins that still assert themselves on the finish. If Léoville Poyferré is in its prime today, this Léoville Barton still ideally deserves a few more years' patience.

Consistent from bottle (I tasted it three times), this is an outstanding offering, although not quite at the prodigious level of the 2000. Civilized and approachable for a young Leoville-Barton, it exhibits a saturated plum/purple color along with classic Bordelais aromas of damp earth, creme de cassis, smoke, vanillin, and tobacco. Medium to full-bodied and rich, with high but well-integrated tannin, and a long, 40+ second finish, it should turn out to be a brilliant effort, and one of the stars of the Medoc. However, patience is essential. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2020.

The 2001 Léoville-Barton is drinking extremely well at 17 years of age. Mellow on the nose with blackberry, sage, tobacco and light graphite notes, there is an uncommon extravagant edge to this wine. That comes through on the palate that feels as if it has slightly lower acidity than other vintages, rounded in texture with a toasty, cedar-infused finish. It does not quite have the breeding that I discerned a decade ago but it still has plenty to offer, not least a sense of approachability.

(a blend of 70% cabernet sauvignon, 20% merlot and 10% cabernet franc) Bright medium ruby. Slightly medicinal aromas of cassis, black cherry, minerals and mint. Firm and elegantly styled, with very pure flavors of cassis, black cherry and licorice. Seems only moderately ripe, though, even a bit green, and somewhat dominated today by its tannic spine. Will this wine fill out during its elevage