1990 Chateau Leoville Poyferre 2eme Cru Classe, Saint-Julien

Absolutely spectacular, the1990 Leoville Poyferre is much more evolved than either of its two Leoville neighbors. Its opaque plum/garnet color is accompanied by a gorgeous bouquet of smoke, charcoal, creme de cassis, and flowers. Fleshy and opulent, it comes across like a St.-Julien with a Pomerol texture and allure. This beauty has reached full maturity where it should remain for another two decades. Release price: ($325.00/case)

A good, although not perfect bottle, the 1990 Château Léoville Poyferré is ruby-hued with just light bricking at the rim. It has a perfumed, complex style in its leafy herb, tobacco, truffly earth, and sappy flower and tea-like aromatics, and it's resolved, medium to full-bodied, and elegant on the palate, with a gorgeous finish. A touch of underlying earthiness to this bottle kept the score down slightly, but this is nevertheless a fully mature, elegant, beautiful Saint-Julien to enjoy over the coming decade.

The 1990 Léoville-Poyferré is a wine that I have drunk on several occasions over the years. This ex-château example has a slightly rustic nose, maybe with a touch of VA, though the aromatics are stuffed with so much fruit that you cannot help but fall for its charms. Touches of mint and melted dark chocolate emerge with time. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins, impressive depth, nothing like the finesse of more recent vintages yet with satisfying depth and grip. Perhaps the summer warmth impedes more than the 1989 that I feel has more sophistication, yet this is still a thoroughly pleasurable Saint-Julien. Tasted at Saint-Julien restaurant.

Deep red-ruby. Remarkably complex aromas of chestnuts, earth, truffle, shoe polish and a cigar-box nuance. Suave, intensely flavored fruit; a very youthful, sharply defined and thoroughly delicious wine of great finesse. Finishes firm and long. Our favorite Poyferré since the '83. The three Léovilles are stunning—and completely different in style—in 1990. 91(+?), use more clarity and nuance. Should be accessible early.