The 2001 Les Forts de Latour is one of many that I had not tasted for a decade. Now at 20 years old, it has a lovely, almost melted bouquet of black fruit laced with tar, cedar and pine, rose petal, occupying that liminal point between primary and secondary stages. The well-balanced palate offers a dash of black pepper on the entry and shows good weight and tension. It’s lively yet classic in style, and fans out wonderfully toward the persistent, saline finish.

Increasingly one of Bordeaux’s finest second wines, the lush 2001 Forts de Latour exhibits a personality similar to its bigger sibling. Its deep ruby/plum color is accompanied by aromas of smoke, earth, black currants, and notions of walnuts as well as spice box. Round and generous, it should drink well for 10-12 years.

Full ruby-red. Youthfully grapey aromas of currant and flowers. Sweet and dense, with cabernet-dominated flavors of currant and fresh herbs (this wine is normally a 60/40 blend of cabernet sauvignon and merlot, but in '01 includes only 20% merlot). Firm acids give the wine good shape and grip.