Tasted blind at the Southwold Bordeaux tasting. The 2012 Château L'If from Jacques Thienpont and Fiona Morrison has a broody, introspective bouquet that needs encouragement from the glass. Although it is tightly coiled, it feels well defined and the oak is nicely embedded into the fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with grippy dark plum and blackberry fruit laced with graphite and tobacco. Masculine compared to its peers, this is another wine that will require long-term ageing. There is a lot to admire considering that the couple had only recently taken over the running of the property. Tasted January 2016.

85% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc, average vine age 45 years. The 2012 will probably be released as the first commercial vintage but possibly not en primeur. A seven-hectare vineyard next to Troplong Mondot bought in the winter of 2009 by Jacques Thienpont, whose grandfather at one time owned Troplong Mondot. Lots of cassis fruit but quite upright; dark, juicy fruit, showing a touch of Cabernet Franc's graphite character, attractive savoury finish. Compact but velvety texture, fresh too. (JH)

Tasted blind. Low-key nose. This seems distinctly dull. Where’s the flavour? The a cidity is currently trumping the fruit. (JR)