The 2014 L’If has a dense, sultry nose at first, touches of salted liquorice infusing the black, almost tarry fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with sweet but firm tannin, a core of ripe, almost sorbet-fresh fruit, orange rind tincturing the finish. I find this actually improves in the glass, developing more sappiness with time although I would have liked more persistency on the aftertaste. Tasted blind at the annual Southwold tasting.

Mid crimson. Fresh and clean with vibrant fruit. Really quite a charmer within its slightly raw framework. Well done. (JR)

A full-bodied wine but showing so much in finesse and beauty. It slowly builds on the palate to give an crescendo of subtle fruit and fine tannins. Subtle undertones of oyster shell and iodine. Unique. This only has 9% cabernet franc. Rest is merlot.

The 2014 L'If is one of the most flamboyant wines I tasted during my recent trip to Bordeaux. A rush of dark cherry jam, chocolate and sweet spice hits the palate. Ripe and unctuous to the core, the 2014 possesses an almost extreme level of concentration for the vintage. There is just enough Cabernet Franc in the blend to add a touch of aromatic lift and structure. At times, the alcohol peeks out a bit. This is an especially opulent style. The blend is 91 % Merlot and 9 % Cabernet Franc. In a very short amount of time, Cyrille and Jacques Thienpont have done a terrific job with L'If.

Ripe and fleshy, with a broad feel to the plum sauce and steeped raspberry fruit flavors, backed by hints of ganache and smoldering tobacco. A light loamy edge on the finish marries with the vibrant fruit. Best from 2018 through 2026. JM