The 2019 L'If is the sort of wine I would like to spend hours with. There is just too much to it. At times the 2019 is opulent and quite racy, and yet in other moments its the underlying minerality and tension in the wine that are most evident. Black cherry, herb, incense, licorice and mocha gradually open over time. The 25% Cabernet Franc comes through nicely, both in the wine's aromatic profile and overall structure. L'If is a wine to buy and cellar for a decade or more. I loved it.

The 2019 L'If has an almost Left Bank nose with copious graphite scents percolating through the black fruit, very focused and energetic. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy black fruit, finely tuned, ripe and sensual with ample freshness on the cedar and mineral infused finish. Wonderful. Tasted blind at the Southwold annual tasting.

The 2019 L'If has turned out beautifully, bursting from the glass with aromas of sweet wild berries, plums and cherries mingled with notions of violets, raw cocoa, rose petals and spices. Medium to full-bodied, ample and concentrated, it's deep and enveloping, with lively acids and a long, perfumed finish. This gets my nod as the finest L'If to date.

75% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Franc. Barrel sample. Lifted but restrained with an appetising fruity nuance. Integrated oak just perceptible. Texture smooth and silky, the tannins long and finely honed. Overriding freshness, even zesty on the finish. (JL)