The 2014 Malescot-St-Exupery has a clean, fresh and vibrant bouquet with blackberry, raspberry and cedar scents, a touch of graphite emerging with time. The palate is medium-bodied with supple red berry fruit laced with cedar and graphite. The acidity is well judged, that pencil lead note heightened towards the finish that demonstrates very fine persistence. I like the swagger and class of this Margaux and I can see this offering two decades of drinking pleasure.

Mid purple. Interesting, savoury graphite nose. Then sweet elderberry fruit. Round and sweet with less obvious acidity than many of its peers. Some energy here. Should provide satisfying drinking – if the price is right. (JR)

Tasted blind. Very dark but evolved colour. Equally evolved and leathery on the nose. Lots of undergrowth and not much fruit left. Fresher than I expected on the palate, lots of grip to the tannins. A bit chewy at the end. (JH)