This estate’s grand vin and second wine have both benefited immensely from stricter selections. The 2003 vintage’s heat and drought stressed this vineyard’s light soils, resulting in an atypical Palmer. The 2003 Palmer possesses a dark ruby/purple color, high, austere tannins, less flesh and mid-palate than usual, medium body, and a flowery black currant-scented bouquet. It lacks the extra dimension required aromatically, texturally, and flavor-wise to achieve their normal quality level. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2020.

(a blend of 68% cabernet sauvignon, 20% merlot and 12% petit verdot) Bright red-ruby color. Flamboyantly ripe aromas of blackberry, boysenberry, tar, licorice and minerals. Very concentrated, slightly inky flavors of dark berries and bitter chocolate. Shows a distinctly liqueur-like aspect, even a Burgundian suggestion. Comes across as a bit compact today (the wine was only assembled in late February), but there's very good structure and spine here. Finishes with ripe but serious tannins that will require a decade or more to mellow. A tricky wine to taste today.

Tasted at Bordeaux Index’s “10-Year On” tasting in London. I have never been a fan of this vintage for one of the appellations greatest estates and time is not benefitting it at all. The Palmer ’03 is showing a slight over-ripeness on the nose: mulberry, prune, raisin and earthy aromas. It just feels a little flat. The palate is medium-bodied with very ripe, grainy fruit. The acidity is low and the wine is missing tension and structure towards the finish. It just seems a little simplistic. This seems to be fading. Tasted March 2013.

Subtly sweet blackberry fruit with a touch of violets and spice. Velvety tannins. Lovely juicy moreish finish. (JH)