One of the more overt, exotic whites readers will find in 2014, the Pape Clément Blanc is built on texture and voluptuousness, with all the elements in the right place. Orange peel, mint and white flowers lead to more tropical-leaning fruits, along with a host of honey, melon and quince overtones. The Blanc retains gorgeous nuance for such a big, oily, viscous white. This is another superb showing from Bernard Magrez and his team led by Consulting Winemaker Michel Rolland.

As ever with this wine, there is clear oak barrel influence from the first attack, giving a rich intensity to the stone fruits, majoring on peach and mango. Fairly high alcohol, staying true to the house style but with a very attractive acidity underneath. This is sweet, rich, but with a biting lift.

The 2014 Pape Clement Blanc was tasted three times during my tastings. In all three occasions, I felt that it has not quite delivered on that initial promise from barrel, missing the mineral tension of the finest white Bordeaux such as Domaine de Chevalier or Malartic-Lagravière Blanc. The palate is quite rounded on the entry and the new oak is more evident here, lending the texture an attractive creaminess, but filing away some of the tension and nervosité on the finish. I can picture it having broad appeal, but I was hoping for more terroir expression.