Pale to medium garnet-brick in color, the 1998 Pavie Macquin simply sings with incredibly pure, spritely notes of blueberry preserves, blackberry pie and black cherry compote, revealing loads of eucalyptus, mocha, dried lavender and Chinese five spice accents. Medium to full-bodied, the palate is has wonderfully seductive blue and black fruit layers, framed by velvety tannins and the perfect amount of freshness to create tantalizing tension, finishing with incredible length and depth. Effortlessly delicious and yet possessing plenty of subtext for intellectual stimulation, I just love where this compelling '98 is at right now! (LPB)

(75% merlot, 20% cabernet franc and 5% cabernet sauvignon; 13.5% alcohol; 3.44 pH): Medium-deep purple-ruby: this color is actually less evolved and much darker than that of the 2000. Captivating, uncommonly deep aromas of blackberry, violet, sweet spices and aromatic herbs. Suave and silky on the palate, with amazingly pure red and dark berry flavors complicated by minerals and floral perfume. This Pavie Macquin still included a little cabernet sauvignion in its blend. A great, extremely long wine of rare elegance and purity, it has improved considerably with bottle age. (Ian D'Agata)

Fully mature, yet with plenty of life ahead of it, the 1998 Château Pavie Macquin reveals a ruby/plum hue to go with straight-up textbook Saint-Emilion notes of red and black currants, white truffle, dried flowers, lead pencil, leather, and tobacco. These all carry to a deep, rich, concentrated wine that has a beautiful balance in its acidity, tannins, and fruit, a core of sweet fruit, plenty of mid-palate density, and outstanding length. While I don't think the tannin quality matches what this estate is producing today, this is a brilliant, mature 1998 that brings loads of character and charm. This wine comes from a cooler, limestone terroir located above Château Pavie, on the upper plateau, and is based on 70% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Franc, and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon.

Just hitting its stride now, this pulls together fleshy yet elegant cherry, plum and blackberry fruit, along with notes of black tea, sandalwood and incense. The chalky spine is fully integrated and very long. This shows a caressing feel on the finish before the wine reasserts itself at the very end, adding lovely contrast and mouthfeel. Derenoncourt feels this is the first true grand vin of Pavie Macquin, for that minerality and precision.—Non-blind Pavie Macquin vertical (December 2014). Drink now through 2020. 4,091 cases made. (JM)