2023 Chateau Pavie Premier Grand Cru Classe A, Saint-Emilion Grand Cru

The depth and intensity is really out of this world. The richness is there, but it's all in balance and has an almost weightless feel to it. It's medium- to full-bodied with purity and definition, and the magic of limestone soils keeps the pH low, giving energy, bright acidity and verve. Terrific young red. 51% merlot, 32% cabernet franc and 17% cabernet sauvignon.

The 2023 Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande is pure class. Vertical, deep and explosive, the 2023 is one of the stars of the vintage. Readers will find a vertical, soaring Pichon Comtesse. The 2023 is one of the most refined wines I can remember tasting here in many years. Lavender, dried herbs, menthol, licorice and mocha are some of the notes that build with some time in the glass. The 2023 is not an especially showy Pichon Comtesse, but rather a wine that needs time to blossom.

Ripe black fruits, graphite, crushed stone, chocolate, and some truffly earth nuances all define the 2023 Château Pavie, a gorgeous wine that's certainly up with the crème de la crème of the vintage. Based on 65% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc, and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon and aged 20 months in 72% new French oak, it's medium to full-bodied, with a concentrated, layered mouthfeel and a great finish. The purity, balance, and elegance here are absolutely brilliant. Hide bottles for 4-5 years if you can, and it will shine for three decades. Drink 2030-2060.

With little effort you find an array of flowers, licorice, tobacco, and red fruits, and black plums in the perfume. The palate is edgy, fresh, and with a depth of flavor, which is perfect for the lush, vibrant waves of salt-edged, sweet, pure fruits that fill your palate as it lingers. This is a very strong effort that will evolve without effort for 2 or more decades, yet have the ability to drink well with just a few years of bottle age. The wine blends 82% Merlot, 17% Cabernet Franc, and 1% Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink from 2029-2055

Aromatic nose, clean and clear, lovely pristine black and red fruits, some dark chocolate with violets, graphite and liquorice. Gorgeous succulence, this is so clear and crystalline with some juicy strawberry and bitter orange. A touch of tension gives the backbone and structure - great direction and movement from start to finish. Poised and piercing - so direct - I love the finesse and refinement, everything feels so elegant. Layered and complex but with zing, a sense of life and tons of energy. Still compact, no doubt, as you'd expect but tannins are fine and the wine has been well constructed - this will be delicious. An impressive showing for Pavie in 2023. 3.66pH.

Plus damson and black cherry fruits, rich and ripe but balanced by tomato leaf, pumice stone. This is intense and concentrated, skilfully constructed showing fragrant cumin and turmeric spice that lifts through the palate, opening to show black tea, blood orange, cocoa bean, mint leaf, totally delicious and speaks clearly of its limestone soils. Feels at the top of its game. Harvest September 18 to October 5, 72% new oak for ageing, Gerard Perse owner.

The 2023 Pavie was picked from September 18 to October 5 at 32.76hL/ha with some Cabernet Franc actually picked after the Cabernet Sauvignon. Raised in 72% new French oak plus one-year-old barrels this has a very well-defined and fresh bouquet that articulates the terroir with some style. It is completely different from the Pavie wines I tasted at the estate 10 to 15 years ago—more classical and sophisticated. The palate is medium-bodied with a clean and precise entry. It's lightly spiced with a subtle marine influence—shucked oyster shells and seaweed are embroidered through the black fruit. There's a dash of black pepper toward the finish that remains focused and feels long in the mouth. This is an excellent Pavie in the making.

51% Merlot, 32% Cabernet Franc, 17% Cabernet Sauvignon. Cask sample. An elegant Pavie this year, the power reined in and discreet. Complex floral and dark-fruit bouquet. Suave texture, the tannins finely honed. Long and fresh with a saline finish. (JL)