The 1990 Pavillon Rouge du Chateau Margaux is still drinking very nicely today, though now is a good time to be pulling corks, as it won't last forever. Offering up aromas of blackcurrant and blackberry mingled with notions of cigar box and chimney soot, it's medium-bodied, ample and fleshy, with a seamless, enveloping profile and some of the character of the grand vin in this first-rate vintage for Margaux.

Moderately saturated medium color. Floral, minty, new-oaky nose, with an exotic coconut note; showed some alcohol as it opened in the glass. Silky, supple, and moderately concentrated finishes with palate-caressing tannins and spicy oak. Nicely balanced for early drinking.

The 1990 is a lovely wine, with a fragrant bouquet, soft, medium-bodied, smooth-as-silk flavors, fine concentration, enough acidity for focus, and a fine finish. Drink it over the next decade.

Mid ruby. Ripe and rich on the nose but not at all heavy. Lots of evolution and some warmth and sweetness. Edge of earthiness. Lots of pleasure. Still quite fresh. Excellent balance. Light dustiness. At its peak now? Clean, not heavy. Heady and charming.