As I indicated last year, Chateau Margaux's second wine, the 1995 Pavillon de Chateau Margaux ($28.00-33.00) is outrageously good, and certainly the best second wine I have ever tasted from this estate. I rated it 89-91 points. Readers will find it to be a dark ruby/purple-colored, sexy, opulently-textured wine with outstanding purity, and great fruit. A significant amount of Merlot was declassified from the grand vin for this cuvee, which is irrefutably seductive and silky-textured. It should drink well for a decade.

Impressive deep ruby color. Perfumed, inky, dark berry aroma. Sweet, supple and velvety on the palate. Finishes with lots of dusty tannins and an enticing floral note. Atypically strong for this wine.

Tasted at Roberson’s in London. Compared to other First Growth Second labels, this is found wanting. A deep hue, but the bouquet is rather dour, an “occluded front” of a nose. Firm structure on the palate, tight at first, opening slightly but lacking joie-de-vivre and clarity. Despite returning to my glass after an hour it just does not want to party. Tasted April 2009.

Full, burly, big. Confident, distinctive, good at expressing bordeaux with some opulence. Good sheen and very fine tannins. Crisp finish. Good balance. (JR)