A terrific, value-priced second wine, the 2003 Pavillon Rouge du Chateau Margaux (150,000 bottles produced) may be the finest example of this cuvee I have yet tasted. Its dense ruby/purple hue is followed by creamy aromas of cassis, vanilla, flowers, and licorice. Round, generous, savory, expansive, and amazingly long as well as concentrated, I even joked with Paul Pontallier that this could get him fired as perhaps the selection was too severe! This 2003 should drink well for 15+ years.

The most impressive second wine I have yet tasted from Chateau Margaux, its maker, Paul Pontallier, believes the 2003 Pavillon Rouge du Chateau Margaux is “his best ever.” A deep ruby/purple color is followed by sweet aromas of jammy black fruits. A blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon and 35% Merlot, it represents 50% of the production. With low acidity as well as a fresh, vigorous personality, it should drink well for 12-15 years.

A superb second wine from Chateau Margaux. A delightful fragrant floral nose of blueberry and violets. The palate has excellent acidity, good definition and a beguiling purity, just like the Grand Vin. Marked down due to a touch of astringency on the finish. Tasted March 2004.

Bright red-ruby. Pure aromas of raspberry, violet and minerals. Suave and supple but classically dry, with an enticing floral character throughout. Very stylish, smooth wine, with tannins nicely buffered by berry fruit.

As usual this wine showed extremely well at this stage – as well it might in that five per cent of Ch Margaux's production was rejected even for Pavillon Rouge. It constituted 50 per cent of the total crop. Deep colour and notable freshness and life on the nose. Great finesse with a smooth spread over the palate. Great soft texture yet depth. A tiny note of green tannins underneath almost imperceptible. A blend of 65 per cent Cabernet with 25 per cent Merlot that is pure Margaux (though I wonder where all the Merlot has gone this year???). Round and the ripe tannins are well covered but not especially long. (JR)