The estate’s luxury cuvee, the 2011 Peby Faugeres comes from the oldest (averaging 45 years) sector of the vineyard and is essentially 100% Merlot. Yields were 26 hectoliters per hectare and the fruit was harvested at the end of September. The wine is packaged in a spectacularly beautiful engraved glass bottle. Opaque purple in color, the 2011 is one of the most intense, full and rich wines of the vintage. Notes of ink, graphite, blueberries, black raspberries, toasty oak, white chocolate and mocha are all present in this full-throttle, expansive, savory St.-Emilion. It should drink well for two decades or more. One of the up-and-coming stars of St.-Emilion, Faugeres is owned by Swiss entrepreneur, Silvio Benz (also the owner of the Lalique crystal company).

Very chewy with loads of ripe fruit and a wet earth and blackberry character. Dark chocolate too. Full and rich. Juicy. Rich depth of fruit. Pure Merlot as always.

This goes for it, with bold mocha and ganache aromas followed by dark plum, blackberry and blueberry pâte de fruit notes. The dark, anise-filled finish flirts with overextraction, but ultimately there's beautiful mouthfeel and good vibrancy as the fruit echoes. An impressive effort.—J.M.

You know, my scathing review of the 2008 (blind) prompted a polite letter of enquiry from the estate. I have no problem with that (and at least the letter was polite!) The Peby-Faugeres 2011 was picked from 23rd until 26th September. It actually has a lovely opulent bouquet that is pure and not overpowering and has gorgeous floral aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with crisp tannins on the entry with very good balance, crisp acidity and (I cannot believe I am writing this) engaging elegant finish. See...I like you, really. Tasted April 2012.