One of the candidates for the wine of the vintage, the opaque purple/black 2012 Péby Faugères is stunningly concentrated, with gorgeous purity, an opulent black raspberry, black cherry and blackcurrant fruit spectrum, a full-bodied mouthfeel, and beautiful, velvety, integrated tannins. Amazingly, it is not showing much oak, even though it is aged 100% in new oak. This is a great and profound 2012 that is still youthful, but so impressive already and capable of evolving for two decades. It is 100% Merlot.

One of the most dramatic wines of the vintage, the 2012 Péby Faugères has been superb on the multiple occasions I have tasted it so far. The 2012 is unapologetically deep, rich and ripe, with fabulous concentration that carries through to the finish. Dark blue fruits, smoke, licorice, crème de cassis and sweet spices from the French oak are all fused together. This flamboyant, super-ripe Saint-Emilion is not going to be everyone's cup of tea, but it is undeniably vivid, beautiful and a real thrill to taste. Specifically, what raises Péby Faugères to a level above most wines made in this style is the quality of the tannin. What a gorgeous wine this is.

Offers flashy flavors of cassis, blackberry pâte de fruit and steeped plum, with mouthwatering anise, lingonberry and linzer torte notes. The briary grip is well-embedded on the finish. A showy style, exhibiting good range and drive. —J.M.

This is structured and layered with loads of fruit and tannins. Yet it’s balanced and right. Full body and velvety textured. 100% Merlot.

Deep ruby. Sappy, high-toned aromas of blackberry, dark chocolate and herbs. More tightly wound and less giving in the mouth than I expected from the sweet, ripe aromas, showing an inky blackcurrant flavor complicated by a saline element. The firmly structured finish features building tannins that will need years of patience; I hope the fruit holds up.

The Peby-Faugeres has a very ripe, decadent, slightly alcoholic bouquet that is very modern. The palate is sweet and rounded on the entry with touches of raisin and fig. I actually think the balance here is better than on previous vintages, although the finish is rather smudged at the moment. To be honest – the Faugeres is more my style! Tasted April 2013.