2014 Le Petit Cheval, Saint-Emilion Grand Cru

The 2014 Le Petit Cheval, a blend of 52% Merlot and 48% Cabernet Franc, has a crisp, tightly wound bouquet with blackberry, black olive (as per its primeur sample) and a subtle estuarine undercurrent that becomes more conspicuous with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red berry fruit intermingling with white pepper, clove and a pinch of Chinese five spice. It has moderate depth, a sense of approachability in that the tannins do not really grip the mouth, and the latter half appears appealingly smooth and harmonious. There are no rough edges here, just a touch of frisson on the saline finish. Very fine, a Saint Emilion Deuxième Vin to drink over the next decade.

Tasted blind. Some super-ripe black cherry notes on the nose with a bit of mint. Rather Derenoncourt-like in its burgundian sweet structure! Wild and gamey. (JR)