2023 Le Petit Cheval, Saint-Emilion Grand Cru

There are only 15,000 bottles of the 2023 Le Petit Cheval, a blend of equal parts Merlot and Cabernet Franc that didn't have quite the plenitude of the grand vin. Offering up an attractive bouquet of minty berries, cherries, plums and petals, it's medium-bodied, pillowy and vibrant, with polished tannins and a bright core of fruit. I suspect that a bit of patience will be rewarded by more fat and texture.

Full bottle 1,338 g. (Ch Cheval Blanc has been admirable in its eco moves in the vineyard, but maybe these should include a move to lighter bottles.) 70% Sauvignon Blanc (some of the plant material originally from Sancerre) and 30% Sémillon. Wax seal. Very pale straw. Arrestingly decongestant nose with some richness. If someone told me there was a little Sauvignon Gris in here, I would believe them. Stinky/smoky nose but the real distinction of this wine is the broad spread of fruit on the palate. Very different indeed from the average Bordeaux Blanc. Real distinction on the creamy palate but you are certainly made to pay for it. Great purity. (JR)

50% Merlot, 50% Cabernet Franc. 15% of the harvest. From 5 parcels out of the 46 currently in production. Cask sample. Leafy and floral, the Cabernet Franc notable. Very smooth with fine, filigree tannins for medium-term ageing. Lots of freshness, so appetising. (JL)