1986 Chateau Pichon Baron 2eme Cru Classe, Pauillac

Significantly deeper in colour than the 1985, highlighting that in these decades vintage made all the difference, because there were less techniques to mitigate the challenges. The Pauillac tannins are out on display, and the overall feel is darker, charcoal, cassis, cigar box, tobacco. Not generous, but you feel very much a time capsule of Pauillac at an age where the Cabernet Sauvignon takes on finesse and delicacy without losing shoulders and structure. They began to lower yields at this point, but still up at around 55hl/h. Last year with the Bouteiller family as owners of the estate, in place since the 1930s.

The 1986 Pichon-Baron is a rather disappointing wine in the context of a great Left Bank vintage. It repeats its performance of two years earlier, when I tasted it from magnum. The nose of staid black fruit is foursquare and rather dour, lacking animation. The medium-bodied palate offers light tannin and dense, smoke-tinged black fruit that segues into a foursquare, rather conservative and aloof finish. Though slightly better than the aforementioned magnum, you would still expect more. Tasted at the Pichon-Baron vertical at the château.