Tasted at the London Pichon-Baron off-line. This is a great ’98 Pauillac. A deep garnet colour. The bouquet is ebullient, ripe, a sense of “constrained exoticism” with blackberry, creme de cassis and sandalwood. It might lacks a little finesse but it is a captivating perfume. The palate is developing nicely quite primal, good structure with a touch of dried herbs and mint. Drive by pure, cedary Cabernet Sauvignon and a tarry, slight austere finish. Impressive, but give it time. Drink 2011-2020. Tasted May 2009.

A definitive Pauillac, the dense purple-colored 1998 Pichon-Baron offers up a sweet bouquet of licorice, smoke, asphalt, blackberries, and creme de cassis. In the mouth, the wine is elegant rather than full-blown, with medium body, sweet fruit, nice texture on the attack and mid-palate, and moderate tannin in the long finish. No, this is not as profound as the 1996, 1990 or 1989, but it is an outstanding effort. Anticipated maturity: 2006-2020.

Good deep ruby color. Cassis, blueberry and mint on the nose. Sweet, bright and nicely balanced; dark berry and mineral flavors are vibrant and delineated. Finishes with mouthcoating but fairly ripe tannins and good length. A solid showing for this wine. Numerous tasters at the Union des Grands Crus tasting of Pauillacs reported preferring Lynch-Bages to Pichon-Baron, but based on my samples at the respective chateaux, I give this wine a slight edge.