A solidly made effort, the 1982 Pontet Canet reveals some pink at the edge, but it remains a medium-bodied wine offering hints of menthol and red as well as black currants. Although it lacks concentration, the sensuality and suppleness provided by the vintage character are still appealing. It is best consumed over the next 3-4 years.

Tasted at the Pontet-Canet vertical in London—to be frank, I have never been a fan of the 1982 Château Pontet-Canet—this wine is a testament to how far the estate has traveled under Alfred Tesseron and Jean-Michel Comme. It is a long way behind its peers. Now it has a dry, rather skeletal bouquet with a disagreeable dustiness. You can hear the slam of the door...that's the last of the fruit exiting. The palate is now dominated by dry tannins. There is a hole where the 1982 fruit ought to be (and it was there a decade ago), although there is a modicum of redeeming freshness towards the finish. Your safest bet is to drink any bottles remaining, and load up on a more recent and superior vintage. Tasted February 2016.

Red-ruby. Quintessential Pauillac aromas of redcurrant, shoe polish and roast coffee. Chunky and warm, with limited personality. Firm acids give the finish a slight tartness.

Deep crimson. Menthol flavours. Rich and big palate impact, but a very particular (mineral?) flavour. Lots of tannin. Scent of stones. Hard work. (JR)