They know how to deliver sleek, poised and subtly gourmet wines even in the more austere vintages at Smith Haut Lafitte, and this is delicious, great quality, fine but firm tannins, opening up but still focus on primary fruits, cassis and blueberry, grilled oak, lovely stuff with a mouthwatering finish. 80% new oak, Fabien Teitgen technical director.

Highly charged and fully aromatic on the nose. Bright and fresh, a lovely hit of acidity which gives the blueberries and black cherries lift with clear graphite and a wet stone minerality, licks of liquorice around the sides. It's a bit tight, not so soft and expansive, but with nice detail on show. Feels like they didn't push too hard and have delivered a really enjoyable glass of wine still with subtle power underneath and a long finish. You get the impression of a bit of heat and spice here which adds nuance and structure and suggests definite further ageing potential. Not weighty but flavourful.

The 2014 Smith Haut-Lafitte has a much simpler bouquet than the 2014 Pape-Clément, with scents of pencil lead and cooked meat infusing the black fruit. The palate is well balanced with slightly firm tannin, moderate levels of acidity that segues to a very peppery and vivacious finish. This is a sophisticated and classy Pessac-Léognan, though I wonder if it is starting to close down? Tasted blind at the annual Southwold tasting. - vinous.com, March 2018

Tasted blind. Dark, youthful colour. Vibrant dark fruit, a touch cedary, and smells so young relative to the other wines in this line-up of 2014s. Quite a bit of oak but it’s elegant with compact yet fine tannins. Harmony, refinement and length. (JH)