Probably one of the most structured and stony SHLs I have ever had. Full yet very tight and compact palate with tannins that are like a tightly wound ball of silk. It goes on for a very long time. The cab berries were very small and they delivered a fantastic backbone of tannins, but at the same time intensity of vivid and reserved fruit. This is really long and classic in structure. The elevage in barrel will polish the fantastic, pure tannins. 70% cabernet sauvignon, 23% merlot, 6% cabernet franc and 1% petit verdot. From biodynamically grown grapes.

Dark and fragrant nose, scented and intense but not too rich and ripe, more cool, crisp and fresh. Aromatics of roses, floral elements and pot pourri - very welcoming. Big boned, this has expansion and intensity from the get go, powdery tannins fill the mouth with a juicy core and layers of freshness, mint, graphite, wet stones, herbs, cocoa and liquorice. Not as immediately as suave, soft and caressing as SHL can be, this is more serious, more straight and streamlined. Still finessed but this has muscle to it, forward and direct. It’s a beauty but will need time to expand and soften some more. Still very much on the Cabernet aromatics and power. I do like its density though, there is richness here, it’s not all straight and the tannins are filling. This has lovely potential with chewy strawberry and cranberry flavours. You don’t have the feeling of overt warmth with a cool freshness and touching on austere acidity, but this offers freshness and tension as well as ripeness. 1% Petit Verdot completes the blend. 3.65pH. 26hl/ha yield, more or the less the same as usual winemaker Fabien Teitgen said.

Blackcurrants, smoky tobacco, graphite, and hints of espresso all emerge from the 2023 Château Smith Haut Lafitte, a gorgeous effort based on 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Merlot, 6% Cabernet Franc, and 1% Petit Verdot. This is the highest percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon ever used in the blend, largely due to mildew, yet the team also loved the quality of the Cabernet in the vintage. Medium to full-bodied, it has a concentrated, focused mouthfeel, plenty of ripe tannins, and a chalky, mineral, fresh feel on the finish. I love the overall balance as well as the purity here. Hide bottles for just 4-5 years and it's going to blow you away over the following 30 years. Drink 2029-2055.

The 2023 Smith Haut Lafitte is a brilliant wine, revealing a complex, elegantly oaky bouquet of dark wild berries, mulberries, blueberries, flowers and spices. Medium to full-bodied, seamless and rich, it has a fleshy core of fruit with good concentration and refined, structured tannins that segues into a long, penetrating and mineral finish. Crafted with an unprecedented majority of Cabernet Sauvignon—due to mildew affecting the Merlot—this Smith Haut Lafitte highlights a distinctly Cabernet-driven texture that authentically reflects its terroir despite a slightly more structured character. This blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Merlot, 6% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot, matured in 60% new oak barrels, represents one-third of the entire crop.

Cabernet dominant in terms of aromatics and weight through the palate, opening with fennel, sage, violets, peonies, squid ink, cocoa bean, espresso, with the texture softening and becoming creamier through the mid palate. The hidden depths and slow build that elevates the always-seductive character of Smith Haut-Lafitte into one of the truly exceptional wines of Bordeaux are fully on display. Wine director Fabien Teitgen on his 28th vintage at the estate - and this is the vintage where King Charles and Camilla visited the property, so it comes with a commemorative label. 26hl/h yield, harvest September 8 to October 5.

The 2023 Smith Haut Lafitte is a powerhouse. In recent years the Grand Vin has shifted toward a bit more nuance than in the past but in 2023 small yields and thick skins yielded a somber explosive Grand Vin. It will need many years to be at its most expressive. Blackberry gravel licorice spice plum and chocolate are some of the many notes that emerge from the glass. Readers will find a wine of real substance and textural intensity framed by vibrant acids. A touch of air works wonders here. 2030-2053

The 2023 Smith Haut Lafitte comes with a label celebrating the visit of King Charles III that year though I presume it was not his advice to include more Cabernet Sauvignon (70%). It was cropped at 26hL/ha. Matured in 60% new oak it has a lovely bouquet with blackberry wild strawberry crushed violet and light oyster shell scents. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy black fruit gentle grip fine depth and a sapid classically lined finish. One of the more structured Smith Haut Lafittes in recent years it deserves four or five years in bottle. Excellent.

90% Sauvignon Blanc, 5% Sémillon and 5% Sauvignon Gris. 36 hl/ha. Cask sample. Initially discreet then opens to reveal floral, citrus and vanilla notes. Large on attack with plenty of succulent fruit, then drive and persistence on the finish. An extra edge of ripeness compared with many but freshness as well. Very much in the house style. (JL)