Slap bang in the Haut-Médoc for this one, classic Left Bank with glass-staining purple in colour, slate and cassis, graphite and crushed stones, this is manages to be both muscular and restrained, exuberant and understated. Has the concentration of the vintage but controls it well - one to look out for, and proof that gravel could work in the heat of the vintage if the location is right, and the vineyard was treated carefully.

Aromas of dark berries and plums mingled with hints of mint, violets and licorice introduce the 2022 Sociando-Mallet, a medium to full-bodied, supple and lively wine that's deep, fleshy and seamless, with powdery tannins that assert themselves with promising youthful grip on the finish. It's a blend of 63% Merlot, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon and 2% Cabernet Franc. Readers who remember how this estate acquitted itself in years such as 2003 and 1990 will not be surprised by its quality in 2022.

The 2022 Sociando-Mallet was picked 7-23 September at just 22hL/ha. This is very concentrated and quite opulent on the nose, bit of a bravura bouquet, layers of black cherry, Christmas cake and light undergrowth scents. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins. Quite fresh, grippy in the mouth, my only quibble is that it feels a tad abrupt on the finish. Barrel maturation should address that.

The 2022 Sociando-Mallet is a bit hard to read today. I very much admire the dynamic energy, which Sociando has in spades, but at the same time the tannins show some edginess that will need to resolve. Élevage will be critical, but it may not be enough to compensate for a vintage with hail damage and yields of just 21.5 hectoliters per hectare.