(70% merlot, 25% cabernet, and 2.5% each malbec and cabernet sauvignon) Medium bright ruby. Cool, slightly grapey aromas of black cherry, dark chocolate, violet and chalk. Juicy, minerally and penetrating; suave but not fleshy. This has a lower pH than most past vintages and comes across as taut and refined in the way of a moderately ripe Burgundy, with energy from limestone, a peppery note and lively acidity. "Not a sex bomb," notes Thunevin, who is very aware that he has crafted a more serious style of wine. Thunevin concentrated the must by means of a 15% saignee

Tasted blind at the Valandraud vertical at the property, the 2006 Valandraud was the first of two vintages that were 100% Merlot (the other being 2007). It was matured in 100% new oak for 21 months. It has a deep garnet core with just a little turbidity. The bouquet is very refined, quite forward for a 2006 with raspberry coulis, crushed strawberry, dried honey and violet scents that unfurl in the glass. That cough candy signature appears only after a few minutes aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with supple ripe red berry fruit. It is not as concentrated as the 2006 Troplong Mondot poured alongside, but there are plenty of attractive, saline black fruit infused with tobacco and spice box, with just a mellow and harmonious finish. Tasted December 2016.

Bright crimson. Thick and fresh and a bit angular and not really married – hollow and awkward. Needs a bit of weight and fruit expression in the middle. No kosher cuvée was made this year ‘because I still have four years’ stock to sell’, said Jean-Luc Thunevin. Kosher-keepers, haste ye. (JR)