The 1928 Vieux Château Certan is still drinking brilliantly today, wafting from the glass with aromas of earthy currant fruit mingled with notions of cigar wrapper, pencil shavings, sweet spices and loamy soil. Medium-bodied, deep and concentrated, with a layered core of fruit, lively acids and powdery but not entirely melted tannins that assert themselves on the finish, this wine remains remarkably youthful as it closes in on 100 years old.

The 1928 Vieux Château Certan is a vintage I have been lucky enough to drink on four occasions. This is a lovely bottle, albeit not the very best. There's a wide brick on the rim, paler than the 1925. The bouquet is wonderful: beguiling vestiges of red fruit, clearly more concentration than the 1926, red cherries and hints of strawberry intermixed with earthenware and loamy scents. Fine delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with a gentle grip, fine-boned tannins and tart cherry mixed with an almost citrus-like freshness. The 1928 shows impressive length with an almost Médoc-like finish from the Cabernet/Malbec components, thereby making it more Pomerol than Burgundy (as I noted in a previous bottle). Still lively after almost one century - a marvel. Tasted at the VCC vertical in Etikhove.

‘Best and longest lasting vintage of the 1920s, with great weather after a cool and dull spring: successful flowering. Perfect summer; heat in August tempered by useful rains. Excellent harvest weather and cool nights prevented any bacterial risks due to the warm temperatures. Georges Thienpont spoke of this problem in his catalogue and lamented the fact that not enough winemakers take the necessary precautions in these very hot summers. The wines were rich with thick skins, structured tannins and led to the impressive longevity of this vintage.’ Recorked. Roy Richards of Richards Walford has bottles that were not recorked and is convinced that the little dose of SO 2 on recorking has had a deleterious effect. Others in the group remember better bottles. Mid rust/ruby colour. Lots of impact, even complexity. Rich! Really fine wine rather than the slight ‘relic’ status of the even older vintages. Kerpow! Still going unbelievably strong. Long and great balance of fruit and acidity. (JR)