2010 Chateau Croizet-Bages 5eme Cru Classe, Pauillac

(80% cabernet sauvignon, 17% merlot and 3% cabernet franc) Dark ruby. Enticing nose combines black plum, blackcurrant, violet, Oriental spices and soy sauce. Smooth and dense on the palate, with juicy fruit flavors similar to the aromas. Displays very good balance and finishes with smooth, ripe tannins. A surprisingly big wine for Croizet-Bages that remains elegant and refined but packs plenty of oomph. Tasted three different times with only one sample scoring less than 90 or 91 points. The best Croizet-Bages I remember tasting at a similar stage of its development, although the 2008 had already hinted at an overall improvement here. This wine may well be underrated by other wine writers who don't want to go out on a limb, given the estate's track record, but in 2010 Croizet-Bages, at least at this stage of the game, is very promising indeed.

Full ruby-red. Slightly medicinal aromas of cassis, blackberry, soy sauce and licorice. Dense and chewy in the mouth, with a restrained sweetness but very good intensity to the rather muscular dark fruit, licorice and spice flavors. Not the last word in finesse but in its breadth and smooth tannins this is the best wine from this estate in decades.

Tasted at Château Rauzan-Gassies. The 2010 Croizet Bages, a blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Merlot and 3% Cabernet Franc, has a light, minty nose that is nicely defined, though perhaps without quite the same level of complexity as the 2009. The palate is medium-bodied with light but supple tannin. That minty note continues and lends this 2010 more "Pauillac" expression than the 2009. Here, there is decent length in the mouth, though there is just a touch of dryness on the finish. Tasted June 2015.

Fragrant, juicy, sappy. Very fine but very dry tannins, leaving a tough finish. Needs a pound of flesh. (RH)