The 2013 Chambertin Clos de Bèze is a raw, powerful and unrestrained wine that is going to need time to fully come together. All the elements are present for that to happen. Dark, intense and vertical in this vintage, the Bèze nevertheless comes across as a bit more graceful and less overt than previous years, a reflection of where the Burguet brothers are taking the estate. Bright veins of acidity add a kick of brightness on the finish.

The 2013 Chambertin Clos de Bèze Grand Cru, raised in one-third new oak, has a tightly-wound bouquet that takes time to unfold in the glass, reluctantly offering brambly red berry fruit, citrus lemon and overripe Clementine. The palate is crisp and linear, vivacious tart cherry fruit infused with sour lemon, focused though without the depth of the 2012. But it feels persistent on the finish that leaves the tongue tingling with Szechuan pepper. Very fine.

Smudgy ruby. Doesn’t seem to be a massive step up from Mes Favorites today. A little occluded. Sweet finish but not quite enough grandeur for the price tag. (JR)